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Contact2020

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Reply with quote  #1 
Hello all, I’m new to this forum I’ve been lurking trying to read up on this quad I just purchased. So I decided to join the forums. I own 2 Polaris quads.

When I brought it home and rode it around a little I started to hear some click(maybe a little more of clunk) when turning. Didn’t hear it the 2 times I test drove it. It was on paddles so I put some dirt tires on there thinking maybe it’s the paddles but no change. This is the first IRS quad I’ve ever seen so I was intrigued by it and decided to purchase it. I’ve read through a few of the threads regarding noise in the rear including “Orion’s” thread for the full rebuild and it’s semi conflicting. Some of them say some will just always click. Some say it’s the rear brakes. I also noticed the post are a few years old so wonder if there’s been any other update or if it’s just semi normal on these IRS style setups as some of the threads have also said. The bike has brand new inner and outer boots and per the owner they were repacked with grease. So my plan for now is too take the axle shafts out pull the boot back, clean and reapply new CV axle grease to both left and right side, inner and outer see if that changes it. And to inspect it as some posts say to check for deep scoring.

Has there been any updates ? I read in some that to just buy a whole new rear end that comes complete but those links are old and some don’t populate anymore. Are they still available like that?

Thanks again and I’m excited to own this outlaw and hope it doesn’t turn into a money pit as my other older polaris is a TANK.
distraction628

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Reply with quote  #2 
I would start with checking The rotor and see if it is warped and also make sure the brake pads float on the pins  freeley.  Pull your rear wheels and see if hubs and bearings are good. Then onto IRS parts. Did they replace the Carrier bearings ?  Really no major updates in years.  You can still buy the complete  . Look  like under Rocky Mountain atv on the OEM part side,
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Reply with quote  #3 
Thanks for responding wasn’t sure if I would’ve gotten a response with the IRS. I will most definitely check that as I can feel the clunk on the caliper as well it’s rotational. And by free should I be able to wiggle the pads on pins a tiny bit ? I will put the rear end on jack stands and check for play. But are these suspension style quads reliable ? (Suspensión wise) I hope I didn’t purchase a money pit.

As for the carrier bearings inside the housing I don’t think so. They said they re packed all the CV’s with grease and replaced the boots the boots look new. Is there a way to upload a video on here?
polaris bob

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Reply with quote  #4 
To post a video you have to upload it to a video site and then post the link here.

The center carrier bearing is different than the half shaft bearings. Think of it as a differential that does not do anything but transfer power. (No differential action LOL)

Suspension wise The outlaws are fairly reliable they tend to go through a arm bushings fairly easy but there might still be aftermarket options to upgrade those bushings. The factory bushings are fairly loose brand new.

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2003 Polaris Predator / 2004 KTM 525 exc 6 speed motor.

570 Thumper Racing kit w/ 12.5 - 1 CP piston. Head ported by Thumper Racing w/ new intake seats done by Pro-1 racing. Stage 5 cam (Custom design by Thumper Racing). AC bearing mod. Oil system mod by DJH. KW valves (stock size). * #100 CDI dirt bike CDI. 42 mm FCR carb by Walt/Fast64ranchero. (SX carb = No TPS). Trail Tech -10 oz flywheel. (Stock is 30 oz/ trail tech = 21 Oz's)
Mino water pump. Full flow set up, no T-stat. PB Oil cooler. Custom modded intake. Uni filter/ D2 Moto adapter on a modded Predator intake tube.
KTM Bill modded CT racing full exhaust system. Tusk Clutch kit. Honda thumb throttle. Snyder Motorsports adjustable upper A-arms. PP Billet front hubs W/ DLR tapered roller bearings. Custom modded fox suspension. Hidden comfort camo seat cover on a modded stock seat.
Contact2020

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Reply with quote  #5 
So haven’t had a chance to check the rotor and pads yet. But here’s a vid of the sound

[image]


Also went on Rocky Mountain and idk if the prices change drastically but when I click on the left inner hub it’s $710 by itself!
Contact2020

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Reply with quote  #6 
Not sure if that link isn’t working or if it’s cause I am on a phone

https://oi628.photobucket.com/albums/uu9/chevyjr34/Mobile%20Uploads/trim.A1D91114-DB6C-4806-B8EA-FE6E150FFCB2_zpsjdcrfefc.mp4
TxOutlawRider

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Reply with quote  #7 
Can you hold the sprocket and rotor and wiggle it? If so it's probably the carrier bearings.
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2007 Outlaw IRS

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Reply with quote  #8 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TxOutlawRider
Can you hold the sprocket and rotor and wiggle it? If so it's probably the carrier bearings.


Hmm I will try that after work tomorrow!
Contact2020

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Reply with quote  #9 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TxOutlawRider
Can you hold the sprocket and rotor and wiggle it? If so it's probably the carrier bearings.




Is this with the read end on the ground or wheels off the ground ?
TxOutlawRider

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Reply with quote  #10 
On the ground. They are a pain to replace so spend the extra money and buy good bearings.
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2007 Outlaw IRS

"Outlaws are the Chuck Norris of the quad world."
Contact2020

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Reply with quote  #11 
Alright so I with the rear end on the ground grabbing the chain sprocket and the rotor I cannot wiggle it it’s solid i just move the whole bike. No play there. I stared at the rotor while rolling the bike by basing myself off the frame on the bike and it’s not a lot very very slight but does look like it is warped out of shape a little. I’m talking a very tiny amount. Is that enough to cause clicking? Or should I just ride this thing till something goes out? Cause I’m at loss now lol
TxOutlawRider

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Reply with quote  #12 
Mine rear brake makes the most noise in reverse but sometimes makes some going forward, and doesnt matter if I'm going straight or turning.
If it only makes noise turning, it's probably got a little wear on the CV bearings and cages. Since you don't know the history of the machine it might be a good idea to clean and refill the grease in the rear end. The new thicker grease can quiet it down some.
My theory as to why they make noise going around corners is this, they have no differential to allow the outside wheel to travel at a faster speed than the inside wheel. On a straight axle it's quiet because the axle is solid and it twists slightly but mostly the tires just slip on the ground. On the IRS there's a bunch of little slack in the system, ball bearings, cages, grooves. As they sightly twist and spring back they make noise as the stuff rocks back and forth taking up the clearances.
What I'm saying is, with some wear noise will always be there and get used to it.
Go out and ride.

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2007 Outlaw IRS

"Outlaws are the Chuck Norris of the quad world."
Contact2020

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Reply with quote  #13 
Thanks for the all the great info guys! And txoutlawRider. Info has put a little more at ease now that I’ve checked those parts and everything seems pretty solid. And seems like these just have noisy rear suspensions. so for cleaning and re greasing does the whole half shaft have to come or can I do the peel the boot back and clean and re grease?

Haven’t taken it out for fear something was wrong ! So will for sure be taking it out this weekend !
TxOutlawRider

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Reply with quote  #14 
To do it right, you'll have to pull the shafts out, but it's a real pain. If it doesn't show signs of any leakage I'd prob leave it alone until I tore a boot or something. Then you can clean and replace all the grease.
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2007 Outlaw IRS

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Contact2020

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Reply with quote  #15 
Here are some pics of the boots. I did notice that the right side inner boot is missing that ring that goes around. So I tried removing the boot just to scope it out but it’s on there I feel I’d have to really yank on it and end up ripping it. So I’m just going take txoutlaw rider advice and just ride since the boots look new. I actually might end up going riding this weekend up in the high desert so it’ll the first time I take it out so will update on the sound !

https://pin.it/3ZSk4Mc

https://pin.it/4fJjsxV
TxOutlawRider

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Reply with quote  #16 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Contact2020
Here are some pics of the boots. I did notice that the right side inner boot is missing that ring that goes around. So I tried removing the boot just to scope it out but it’s on there I feel I’d have to really yank on it and end up ripping it. So I’m just going take txoutlaw rider advice and just ride since the boots look new. I actually might end up going riding this weekend up in the high desert so it’ll the first time I take it out so will update on the sound !

https://pin.it/3ZSk4Mc

https://pin.it/4fJjsxV


You my friend should play the lottery. Usually as soon as that ring comes off if you're riding, it throws that grease out every where. I'd order a kit and use the retaining ring out of it.

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2007 Outlaw IRS

"Outlaws are the Chuck Norris of the quad world."
Contact2020

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Reply with quote  #17 
Damn does it? I tried moving the boot to take a look at the joint with a flat and gasket puller and it’s on there. The retaining isn’t sold separately then ? There’s one on each side? The diagram on Rocky Mountain for the rear housing shows only one and it goes on the left hand side/chain side. This side is the right side/brake Side.

Cause if there’s one for each side I’m going to order ASAP as I haven’t taken it out on trails just rode a few times out on my neighborhood and don’t wanna take chances this weekend
TxOutlawRider

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Reply with quote  #18 
There's one on each side. It's hard for me to see on my crappy phone so take another look to be sure it's not in there. The aftermarket ones are a different design but a little thinner and can fit the groove easier. The factory ones are available still. Heck I'd check eBay. They don't go bad so if someone has a cheap used one it'd be fine.
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Reply with quote  #19 
I looked up videos to compare and I can tell they’re not in there. those ring sit up to like the dot area on the boot almost. And actually both sides don’t have it. I just don’t understand why I can’t peel the boot back then if it doesn’t have the retaining ring in there? Is there a way to do it without really yanking on it and possibly ripping the boot? I ordered both sides so I can install them before this weekend. Ordered part#7710574

I’m guessing the previous owner/shop that serviced them and installed the boots forgot to put them back on?! Smh
TxOutlawRider

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Reply with quote  #20 
Some of the instructions say to use sealant. It's possible they used some type of glue instead.
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2007 Outlaw IRS

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Reply with quote  #21 
So the boots with no ring on should come fairly easy then? I’m betting the used some type of RTV sealant then if they are easy to pull off. But I got a reply from Rocky Mountain ATV and there response is it only uses 1?? I ordered 2.

https://pin.it/5WZKKeo
TxOutlawRider

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Reply with quote  #22 
It's one per side.
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Reply with quote  #23 
Yeah figured he was wrong that and it’s the wrong snap ring they just arrived. It’s way too small I believe this might be the inner snap ring that holds the cv in the case. But check out the diagram (#18) it made it seem like it’s the one that holds the boot to that “Hub” oval piece. Damn man lol

https://pin.it/5asBMR3
https://pin.it/3ascVNj
https://pin.it/5v0Vq1n

So my guess is these are only available with a boot kit like you had mentioned.
TxOutlawRider

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Reply with quote  #24 
I'd have guessed the wrong one too.
When you're shopping for them online, the factory snap ring has a gap between the ends, and the aftermarket ones do not. The factory ones fit better on the factory boots.

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2007 Outlaw IRS

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Contact2020

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Reply with quote  #25 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TxOutlawRider
I'd have guessed the wrong one too.
When you're shopping for them online, the factory snap ring has a gap between the ends, and the aftermarket ones do not. The factory ones fit better on the factory boots.


Hmm is there a way to check if they’re factory boots?
Contact2020

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Reply with quote  #26 
So tested it out this weekend she feels GOOD. This thing has tons of torque has brand new tires all the way around and it already wore the rears down some lol!

The clicking sound would come and go sometimes not even making it weird. But now problems no broken parts no seizing nothing just the sound. The boots also stayed in place while riding so like you said txoutlawrider, they must have used sealant or glue on them. Only thing is I hate how my neutral light works at is leisure haha. This thing rides like a caddy with the fox shocks I love it. Solid solid machine. I think the clicking I’m eventually going to get use to if nothing is wrong?

Another thing are these motors fully sealed? Or vented? I stood it up slightly on the rails of the trailer to make both quads fit and when I got to my location noticed some oil had leaked out. Probably like a few ounces. Normal?

https://pin.it/5sMVtxD
https://pin.it/7bPJBHu
TxOutlawRider

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Reply with quote  #27 
I don't really know much about the 500s, except they are solid motors. They should be sealed. Where did the oil come from?
Also, the factory cv boots are stiffer and have a ring molded into the the big side of the boot making it seal better. The aftermarket ones don't have that and need that other style of snap ring (more like a spiral lock) to keep them from leaking. I prefer the factory cv boots as I've had the others leak and unseat.

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2007 Outlaw IRS

"Outlaws are the Chuck Norris of the quad world."
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Reply with quote  #28 
Yeah she feels real good. She bone stock so I’m sure with an air box mod upgraded filter and pipe/rejet it’ll be just right. It came from one of the breather hoses on the carbs it seemed like.

Okay so that must mean the new boots on there now are factory as the end of it feels solid like something imbedded in the boot. Just need to find the large snap ring for it just to be safe but I feel like they’re sealed/glued in there.
polaris bob

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Reply with quote  #29 
In a 100% stock factory configuration there is a crankcase breather hose which goes to the air box. If the oil level is a little bit too high or if you tilt it up on the rear bumper for a length of time some oil can come out of the breather hose and end up in the air box which will then drip out. Many guys remove the breather hose from the air box and put a small filter on the hose to stop oil being dropped into the air box. Just run the breather hose and filter up under the plastic somewhere and tie it off. The higher and more protected the better.
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2003 Polaris Predator / 2004 KTM 525 exc 6 speed motor.

570 Thumper Racing kit w/ 12.5 - 1 CP piston. Head ported by Thumper Racing w/ new intake seats done by Pro-1 racing. Stage 5 cam (Custom design by Thumper Racing). AC bearing mod. Oil system mod by DJH. KW valves (stock size). * #100 CDI dirt bike CDI. 42 mm FCR carb by Walt/Fast64ranchero. (SX carb = No TPS). Trail Tech -10 oz flywheel. (Stock is 30 oz/ trail tech = 21 Oz's)
Mino water pump. Full flow set up, no T-stat. PB Oil cooler. Custom modded intake. Uni filter/ D2 Moto adapter on a modded Predator intake tube.
KTM Bill modded CT racing full exhaust system. Tusk Clutch kit. Honda thumb throttle. Snyder Motorsports adjustable upper A-arms. PP Billet front hubs W/ DLR tapered roller bearings. Custom modded fox suspension. Hidden comfort camo seat cover on a modded stock seat.
Contact2020

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Reply with quote  #30 
Quote:
Originally Posted by polaris bob
In a 100% stock factory configuration there is a crankcase breather hose which goes to the air box. If the oil level is a little bit too high or if you tilt it up on the rear bumper for a length of time some oil can come out of the breather hose and end up in the air box which will then drip out. Many guys remove the breather hose from the air box and put a small filter on the hose to stop oil being dropped into the air box. Just run the breather hose and filter up under the plastic somewhere and tie it off. The higher and more protected the better.



Now that I read your message, I looked deeper into as I was out there. It looks like it did get into the air filter box and not out of a carb hose. So just run one of those crankcase little air filters on the hose? I read on another forum that they find a plug that fits the hole and just plug it for the drive there not sure what’s the better option. Or are you talking about like a filter with a check valve in it? Thanks for the info that helped.
Contact2020

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Reply with quote  #31 
Took her out again and she’s solid, the clicking is definitely still there but no play nothing seizing and it soaks bumps pretty good with the fox podiums on there. Boots still intact so that’s showing they probably did use glue or sealant to seal the boots. I still haven’t found online where they sell the ring by itself just the whole boot kit. But guess I’ll ride her till something in the rear goes ?
polaris bob

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Reply with quote  #32 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Contact2020



Now that I read your message, I looked deeper into as I was out there. It looks like it did get into the air filter box and not out of a carb hose. So just run one of those crankcase little air filters on the hose? I read on another forum that they find a plug that fits the hole and just plug it for the drive there not sure what’s the better option. Or are you talking about like a filter with a check valve in it? Thanks for the info that helped.


All 3 options work........ One ifox s not better than the other for what you are wanting to to accomplish.

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2003 Polaris Predator / 2004 KTM 525 exc 6 speed motor.

570 Thumper Racing kit w/ 12.5 - 1 CP piston. Head ported by Thumper Racing w/ new intake seats done by Pro-1 racing. Stage 5 cam (Custom design by Thumper Racing). AC bearing mod. Oil system mod by DJH. KW valves (stock size). * #100 CDI dirt bike CDI. 42 mm FCR carb by Walt/Fast64ranchero. (SX carb = No TPS). Trail Tech -10 oz flywheel. (Stock is 30 oz/ trail tech = 21 Oz's)
Mino water pump. Full flow set up, no T-stat. PB Oil cooler. Custom modded intake. Uni filter/ D2 Moto adapter on a modded Predator intake tube.
KTM Bill modded CT racing full exhaust system. Tusk Clutch kit. Honda thumb throttle. Snyder Motorsports adjustable upper A-arms. PP Billet front hubs W/ DLR tapered roller bearings. Custom modded fox suspension. Hidden comfort camo seat cover on a modded stock seat.
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