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joeylasketti

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Hey guys, new here but I have been looking for some insight on this for quite a while.  I recently picked up a 2006 Outlaw 500.  I didn't notice it when I bought it but the rear end was clicking pretty badly while driving straight, or turning.  I ripped the whole rear end apart, and replaced the carrier bearings which were badly worn.  Next, I noticed the left inner CV actually had a big chip broken out of the race.  I replaced that CV and put it all back together.  After words, it didn't click while going straight anymore, but turning left on the grass made it click really badly.  It also did it turning right but barely noticeable.  I started investigating more, took off the rear caliper to eliminate that, took the chain off to elimate that.  With the chain off and pushing it, you can actually feel the clunking in the left axle shaft while turning on the grass.  Next, I swapped sides on the shafts, noise still stayed on the left side.  Swapped sides on the outer hubs, noise stayed on the left side.  For some reason, I replaced the right side inner cv with no improvement.  I also replaced the outer left cv with no improvement.  My last option at this point is buying a new center hub sprocket but they go for around $250.

 

Now, I am wondering do these quads just make noise while turning?  I sure hope I am not chasing something that they all do anyways.  Thanks for any help.


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LE Nick

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Reply with quote  #2 
Welcome to the site!

It's your center hub.  I had the same issue.  If you replace the joint, you still have a junk hub and it will make noise.  You need to start new.  If you get lucky, you can find a good (emphasis on good) center hub.

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joeylasketti

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Reply with quote  #3 

Thanks for the help Nick, I appreciate it.  I will order a new center hub from polaris their part number is 2203136 and hope for the best!


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08IRS

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Reply with quote  #4 

Same issue here....

 

I am guessing this is a common problem for the IRS's?  I can see this being an expensive fix.  New hub, race, cage and bearings.

 

Nice.


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SOLD - 08 Outlaw IRS Uni filter,O-ring mod, Cycra hand guards, 2" Rox anti-vibe risers, HMF Sport pipe, ODI Rogue grips (thanks PPR),Pro Armor Kill switch, IMS Nerfs and heel guards, PP grab bar, PRM Outlaw front bumper, Rekluse clutch, Precision Stabilizer & Flexx bars.

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LE Nick

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Reply with quote  #5 

Yup, it does get very expensive if you buy the parts from Polaris.  Even though, it's worth it to do everything while you're in there if it clicks (bearings, joints, hubs).


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joeylasketti

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Reply with quote  #6 

Well, I attempted to order the center hub from power sports plus.  They say its on back order with an unknown ETA.  I guess I will just have to wait and see how long it will take.  They are less than half price of the dealer though so hopefully it won't take too long!


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Fossil85

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Reply with quote  #7 

I sent you a pm.


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08IRS

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Reply with quote  #8 

joeylasketti, Let me know how it goes as far as price and where you get yours from.  I am going to have to do this too.


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SOLD - 08 Outlaw IRS Uni filter,O-ring mod, Cycra hand guards, 2" Rox anti-vibe risers, HMF Sport pipe, ODI Rogue grips (thanks PPR),Pro Armor Kill switch, IMS Nerfs and heel guards, PP grab bar, PRM Outlaw front bumper, Rekluse clutch, Precision Stabilizer & Flexx bars.

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joeylasketti

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Reply with quote  #9 
08 IRS, well power sports gave me a total run around.  First they said they shipped it, then they said they didn't.  Then couldn't tell me if it actually shipped or not, and they finally decided it was on back order and they had no idea on an ETA.  After an hour on hold, I managed to get the order cancelled and refunded.  As luck would have it, Fossil actually only lives 20 minutes from me and he had a spare hub I am going to try.  I will keep you updated on if it fixes my problems.

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Reply with quote  #10 

Nice, I hope that works out for you.  Right now I see nothing but as I look into this project.


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joeylasketti

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Reply with quote  #11 
08IRS, ok now that I know how this thing is suppose to work I can give you some help.  Depending on your mechanical skills, you may be able to take it apart and just change the cvs but its likely that there is more than just those that will be junk.  The problem with mine was both the cvs and the actual center hub.  After carefully inspecting my center hub, there are definite grooves worn into it especially on the left side.  This explains why it always made noise when the left wheel was loaded up no matter what combination of parts was put on that side.  The hub I got from fossil is perfectly smooth inside, and after installing it all my noise is gone. 

If you have never changed your carrier bearings, its very likely those are junk also.  They use a very cheap quality China bearing in there that wears out very quickly.  Changing the center hub and the bearings requires a shop press but its not really a difficult job.

All that being said, its probably your best bet just to get the entire rear set up.  This is especially true if there are grooves in your center hub.  Cheap cycle parts has the entire rear end for something like $575 the last time I checked.

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Reply with quote  #12 

Thanks joey, I've rebuilt the rear end once and I am not looking forward to it again but at least this time the bearings should not be rusted to the hub so hopefully it wont be to bad.  Now its only a matter of $$$$


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SOLD - 08 Outlaw IRS Uni filter,O-ring mod, Cycra hand guards, 2" Rox anti-vibe risers, HMF Sport pipe, ODI Rogue grips (thanks PPR),Pro Armor Kill switch, IMS Nerfs and heel guards, PP grab bar, PRM Outlaw front bumper, Rekluse clutch, Precision Stabilizer & Flexx bars.

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Mnpinetree

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Reply with quote  #13 
Well I just did this same thing. Got new inner cv put it in still a loud click. So looks like I need to get

2203136 KIT-HUB,SPROCKET

Found it for 262.50
http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/polaris/PP-2203136.html

Hope this helps ??

JPOUTLAW

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Reply with quote  #14 
Hi Guys,
I just purchased a used 2006 Outlaw. Long story short it makes a popping noise. How ever the rear end seems to be pretty tight, it doesn't have play back and forth or really side to side. The cv boots are in rough shape. From the sound of it I think I have a bad hub. So I am wondering if I can ride it the rest of this year and do a complete overhaul this winter or would I be better off biting the bullet and fixing it now. What will happen if I keep riding it and don't fix it? I have read several places the stock bearings are junk, so where can I get good bearings? Thanks for the link to partzilla I was about to cry when the dealer told me it was almost $600 with out bearings. I found complete cv axles on ebay for $100 bucks. How far should I go to tackle this project and how long do these parts last. The dealer's in my area told me they haven't heard of these parts going bad it has to be the cv axles. I know you guys have talked about this several times on here but I am hoping some one might have some more info.
Thanks
ORION

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Reply with quote  #15 
I have owned about 5 Outlaws. They all made that clicking sound the entire time I owned them. Even the one with 8 total hours on it. Never had any of the rear ends explode or anything like that. If it were me, I would just ride it. Your going to spend a ton of time and money to fix the problem for about 1 ride, then it will probably come back. Just say'n, I got hundreds and hundreds of hours on multiple Outlaws with clicking and it never broke or got worse. I always figured I would fix it if it blew up, but it never did, and I mob the shit out of my rigs. 

    Just my 2 cents. 
LEOGM5150

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Reply with quote  #16 
i also have not had one come apart. if you want to fix it check rmatv they sell the whole rear end cheaper than anyone. after a 10% discount you can get the whole setup axel to axel for about $340 shipped. it is under housing rear schematic last on the list.

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/oem-schematic/2

1521150

(replaces part #
1520904)

ASM-DRIVESHAFT,REAR | [Incl. 8,9,12,16-18,20,23,24,26]$389.995 In-Stock[green-check]



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FROM: POWELL WYOMING USA

MY GREATEST FEAR IS THAT WHEN I DIE MY WIFE WILL SELL MY TOYS FOR WHAT I TOLD HER I HAVE INTO THEM...

2014 POLARIS RZR 4 900 EPS
2012 POLARIS RZR 4 900 XP
2008 POLARIS RZR 800
2008 POLARIS OUTLAW 525S LE
2007 POLARIS OUTLAW 525 IRS
2000 400 RCR TWO STROKE SCRAMBLER
2001 400 TWO STROKE SCRAMBLER
2005 SKI DOO 1000 TWO STROKE SAND SLED
JPOUTLAW

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Reply with quote  #17 
You guys ROCK!! thank you for such a quick response. Why do they sell that whole rear end setup for cheaper than just some of the parts listed that you would need?
LEOGM5150

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Reply with quote  #18 
i think polaris is clearancing them out.
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FROM: POWELL WYOMING USA

MY GREATEST FEAR IS THAT WHEN I DIE MY WIFE WILL SELL MY TOYS FOR WHAT I TOLD HER I HAVE INTO THEM...

2014 POLARIS RZR 4 900 EPS
2012 POLARIS RZR 4 900 XP
2008 POLARIS RZR 800
2008 POLARIS OUTLAW 525S LE
2007 POLARIS OUTLAW 525 IRS
2000 400 RCR TWO STROKE SCRAMBLER
2001 400 TWO STROKE SCRAMBLER
2005 SKI DOO 1000 TWO STROKE SAND SLED
ORION

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Reply with quote  #19 
Seems like a good deal on the rear end, but it would still have to get torn down and rebuilt properly. When I rebuild the rear ends, its a one time deal. I never have to go back in there again. Doing it by the book mean you will have to replace those bearing again in no time, they have play after 2 rides, and are totally shot after 50-75 hours maximum. 
Dunph

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Reply with quote  #20 
I have no idea how many rearends I've gone through. I do know I scooped up one of those entire rear ends though. 340 in about an hour rather than a few hours sounds good to me. I did rebuild the last time with timken bearings but I cannot find them anymore. That one lasted me the longest
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ORION

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Reply with quote  #21 
When I rebuild mine, I will make a "how to" with pics. I have a new method of doing it that will keep the bearings from ever wearing out again. Nothing lasts for ever, but my way will make them last at least 300-500 hours I'm guessing. Haven't seen it fail yet on several outlaws after many many hours, and several years of use. 
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Reply with quote  #22 
Orion never found that How to- posting of rebuilding the rear end...My popping is bad and about to tear it apart. Your how to would be a big help
ORION

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Reply with quote  #23 
I have a big ATV trip coming up in less than a month, and I plan to rebuild my rear end before that for reliability purposes. It still has the original OEM bearings, and they are getting pretty loose (Less than 50 hours since new). I will take detailed pics and provide the part numbers. I will probably rebuild it this weekend if I don't go riding. If your not in a huge rush, it might be worth waiting. The way that they designed that rear end setup is OK, but the bearings always get loose and wear out pretty quickly if its rebuilt according to the service manual instructions. 
Rkangel

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Reply with quote  #24 
A method of bulletproofing the IRS rear end is definitely interesting.  I assume it is more than simply replacing bearings with higher quality units?  I know some have tried adding a grease zerk to the carrier with mixed results.  My long term goal is to bulletproof my outlaw as the stock parts wear.  This would address one of the main areas of concern.
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Dunph

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Reply with quote  #25 
be careful with the zerk and sealed bearings. use 2 zerk fittings so you may remove one while greasing. this will prevent the pressure from collapsing the seals of the bearings forcing them into the races. timken made a the right size bearing once upon a time but i cant seam to find it. they lasted me the longest.
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Reply with quote  #26 
With the mixed results people have had, I will forgo the grease zerk for the time being. 
Interested in seeing Orion's 300-500 hour rear end rebuild method.

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ORION

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Reply with quote  #27 

Sorry, haven't had a chance to dive into the Outlaw rear end yet. Picked this thing up for the dunes trip, and I have been busy working on it a lot. I plan to get the rear end done soon though. 


Photo-0404.jpg



 

ORION

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Reply with quote  #28 
I got started on the rear end. Every time I take one of these apart, Im amazed at how crappy the OEM setup is. They put in poorly sealed cheap bearings, with loose tolerances and a marginal wear life at best. Then they leave the bearings completely exposed to the elements. All it takes is a little bit of water or dirt to get inside that bearing, and its all downhill from there. A little time passes and the bearing gets loose, which opens up the seal gap even more allowing water and dirt to pour in. I don't own a heavy duty press, so I have to take it in to the local machine shop and throw down the usual $15 before I can continue with the rebuild. Pics are nothing special, just the tear down stage. I should have it completed tomorrow unless something comes up.  We can see dirty rusty water dripping out of the stock bearings - Not good. 








1.JPG  2.JPG  3.JPG  4.JPG  5.JPG  6.JPG  7.JPG DSCN9983.JPG 

08IRS

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Reply with quote  #29 
As cheap as the entire assembly is I would just buy a new one, install it and then rebuild this one at my leisure.  If the inner CV's are shot it would be cheaper I believe anyways.
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SOLD - 08 Outlaw IRS Uni filter,O-ring mod, Cycra hand guards, 2" Rox anti-vibe risers, HMF Sport pipe, ODI Rogue grips (thanks PPR),Pro Armor Kill switch, IMS Nerfs and heel guards, PP grab bar, PRM Outlaw front bumper, Rekluse clutch, Precision Stabilizer & Flexx bars.

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ORION

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Reply with quote  #30 
CV's are still good, the balls just fell out during removal. I have high mileage spare rear ends laying around that I could rebuild, but it goes pretty fast and this one only has 41 hours on it. The only thing that slows me down is not having the press, otherwise it would be done in a few hours start to finish. 
tonyc9994

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Reply with quote  #31 
Orion- I just replaced my rear hub and inner and outer axles and bearings... After about 5 hours I noticed the popping in reverse. Nothing in when going forward. Any suggestions? I can't believe after 6 hours and all that money it's happening again.
08IRS

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Reply with quote  #32 
The popping is normally the inner CV's.  Were they replaced with the hub?
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SOLD - 08 Outlaw IRS Uni filter,O-ring mod, Cycra hand guards, 2" Rox anti-vibe risers, HMF Sport pipe, ODI Rogue grips (thanks PPR),Pro Armor Kill switch, IMS Nerfs and heel guards, PP grab bar, PRM Outlaw front bumper, Rekluse clutch, Precision Stabilizer & Flexx bars.

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tonyc9994

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Reply with quote  #33 
Yes
tonyc9994

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Reply with quote  #34 
Yes it came with everything brand new.inside the hub.

08IRS

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Reply with quote  #35 
There is no way an inner CV should be popping after 5 hours (as long as there is no dirt in there destroying the hub and CV's).  Are the outer CV's new too?
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SOLD - 08 Outlaw IRS Uni filter,O-ring mod, Cycra hand guards, 2" Rox anti-vibe risers, HMF Sport pipe, ODI Rogue grips (thanks PPR),Pro Armor Kill switch, IMS Nerfs and heel guards, PP grab bar, PRM Outlaw front bumper, Rekluse clutch, Precision Stabilizer & Flexx bars.

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ORION

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Reply with quote  #36 
Make sure that the sound isn't coming from your brake caliper. They tent to chatter and "hop" when going in reverse. If its coming from housing, its probably a lubrication issue. Did you use lots of genuine CV axle grease? Its thinner than regular grease and has additives to help it work more like a fluid. Regular grease is not sufficient for that CV axles, as it will get pushed out of the way and not flow back into the wear areas. Other than that, make sure your rear tires are even - Same air pressure, and similar tread depth.
tonyc9994

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Reply with quote  #37 
I'm not sure at this point but I'm guessing I need to Take itvall apart which is a mess....
ORION

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Reply with quote  #38 
What exactly does it sound like? 
ORION

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Reply with quote  #39 

   Here is what I would do: 


http://forums.polarisproriders.com/post/outlaw-irs-rear-end-rebuild-upgrade-procedures-the-orion-rear-end-rebuild-7089505?pid=1284380645#post1284380645
tonyc9994

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Reply with quote  #40 
Thanks ORION, it looks like you have this process down pretty good. I wish you had a video on this. I would pay you to make one [smile] ?

im assuming my buddy who did it didnt put enough grease or something but it makes me want to get a straight axel and never deal with this but i love the IRS feature.

Ill wait till i go to the badlands next month and take it apart after. I dont have the energry to deal with that mess of an rebuild
tonyc9994

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Reply with quote  #41 
I'm going to jack it up and put it in reverse and see if I notice. But without it on the ground I don't know if I can hear it but I pulled my brake caliper off.
ORION

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Reply with quote  #42 
If you do this rebuild procedure it will probably be the last time your ever in there, so make sure you do everything you want done at that time. Boots, pads, paint the axles, etc. Its mainly just the special bearings, dust shields, marine grease, and zirk that I do. Other than that, you can just follow the service manual for the standard procedures. 
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