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Dirt Maggert

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Reply with quote  #1 
Hey everybody, new to the forum and new Outlaw 525 owner! Got a taste of this bike back in 2008 when it was new, was originally owned by a family member, fell in love with it then. It's been well cared for, but may need some freshening up on the top end. But cosmetically it looks great. I'll get some pics up as soon as I can, and I'll have some questions soon, just wanted to introduce myself and say hi.
TxOutlawRider

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Reply with quote  #2 
Welcome aboard!  Is it a straight axle or an IRS?  What year?
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2007 Outlaw IRS

"Outlaws are the Chuck Norris of the quad world."
Dirt Maggert

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Reply with quote  #3 
Thanks! 2007 525 IRS. Bought it from my wife's uncle who bought it new in early 2008. He loved it and took great care of it. But he now lives in the mountains and got a Sportsman 850 and a Grizzly I think. Better suited for his terrain. Because of this, the Outlaw didn't see much use the last few years. I don't know how many hours he put on it. I know he loved to ride it. But when he offered it to me, he thought it might need a top end rebuild. He said gas was dumping into the cylinder. He had ran it for a bit like that, at idle I think just trying to let it run. He said he changed the oil 3 times to get it all out. But I work with a guy that knows alot about bikes, and we did a compression test and he was happy with the results, so i'm not real sure. I was going to rebuild the carb at least before I really try to fun it. So far I have it naked, drained the tank and cleaned that out. gonna go wash it down real good before I start pulling off anything else. We only have one shop here that is halfway worth a damn for motos and atv's, but from all I've read, the RFS motor seems to be a bit of a specialized unit, or am I wrong there? I'm a very mechanically inclined person, but I don't think I'd go as far as trying to rebuild the motor myself. Carb, no problem. Valve adjust, no problem. I think I'd even attempt replacing the piston myself. But the bottom end, I'd leave that up to a pro. Is there anything you guys would recommend right off the bat? Thought about getting the valves done first thing... That's where I got the idea that RFS motors were not the norm. If that's the case, is there anybody still doing good valve jobs with the Kibblewhite valves? Anyhow, I'm starting to ramble. I'll see if I can get some more info on it this week. I know I should have asked all these things before, I was just too excited to see it in the back of my truck! Thanks again. Updates soon.
distraction628

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Reply with quote  #4 
Really, if your a motor guy, there is really nothing that different .  Valve adjusted are really easy on the RFS. The bottom end isn't hard at all if you take your time.  Download the service manual and learn about the motor and the quad, and things always go better.   Valve jobs, well, there are a few guys that have better reps then others.   I know Tim at Z force he does good work, Rick Ritter at RCR is a great guy to work with, well we could go on and on about who to use for head work,  Top end is easy, just remember you need to break the cam chain, and need a new link and chain press to put it back together. You can buy the factory tool a little $$$ or use the Tusk cheap tool $ . Just take your time . There is a lot of good stuff on this forum. Yes some parts for the KTM cost a little more, but if you shop well, it isn't that much. 
 Welcome to the forum.

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07 525, 06 500, 10 525s 09 RZRs, 04 Ram 2500 Cummins 6spd, 08 Fuzion toy-hauler
TxOutlawRider

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Reply with quote  #5 
If its been setting, the float needles in the carbs can corrode and stick and cause them to overflow and flood the motor.  Ive have this happen a few times.  Pull it out and check it, polish the sides if needed. 
I believe CT Racing still does some nice cylinder head work as does Travis at Thumper Racing.
If it were me, I'd find a used head on Ebay or something and have it built while I was riding. 
The outlaws tend to be a little high in the front end, so if you can lower it some, you can stop allot of the front understeer ("pushing").  Start by taking almost all of the preload out of the front springs. 
And keep an eye on the rear hub bearings, if they get bad the chain can jump and mess up the engine case.  And watch the front wheel bearings as they can go out and mess up the brake rotors.  There are some tapered bearing kits that are a big improvement. 

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2007 Outlaw IRS

"Outlaws are the Chuck Norris of the quad world."
Dirt Maggert

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Posts: 9
Reply with quote  #6 
The carb was my first thought. I plan to rebuild that before I do anything. I did adjust the valves when we did the compression test, but of course it was done cold, so not sure how much difference that makes. I'll definitely keep an eye on the bearings and the chain, last thing I need is a hole in the case. Any tips on carb rebuild kits? I've seen kits by moose racing, all balls, countless ebay ones. Or should I just get stock Polaris? I've bought kits before that maybe half the parts fit if your lucky. Trying to find a used head to rebuild and have a backup sounds like a great idea, thanks. And here is the only pic I have so far, the day I got it home! 20181125_123838.jpg 
TxOutlawRider

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Reply with quote  #7 
I've never had to buy a rebuild kit. About the only 2 parts that can go bad is the accelerator pump and the round seal in the throttle slide. Avoid getting cleaner on the throttle slide or you can mess up the seal inside.
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2007 Outlaw IRS

"Outlaws are the Chuck Norris of the quad world."
Dirt Maggert

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Posts: 9
Reply with quote  #8 
She lives! I got the Outlaw running today. Cleaned out the carb this past weekend, new plug, oil change, fresh gas. Still waiting on my new air filter, should be here next week. It sounds great. Feels really strong. You wouldn't believe how much oil it had in it! I took the oil cap off and it was completely full. Oil started pouring out of the filler neck! I couldn't believe it. Oil was clean though, filters were clean, and very little junk on the oil plug magnet. No chunks. I can't wait to get it out in the open. I now have a feeling that it may not have as many hours on it as I once thought, and maybe the previous owner didn't really know how to work on his bike! Anyway, just wanted to let everyone know that another Outlaw has been saved. 
Dirt Maggert

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Reply with quote  #9 
Outlaw 1.jpg Outlaw 2.jpg Outlaw 3.jpg And a few photos of her all freshened up!
TxOutlawRider

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Reply with quote  #10 
Looks good!
  If you want to keep the rear fenders from cracking or breaking, you can get a couple pieces of steel or aluminum and build a fender brace pretty cheap.  Theres some videos around that will show you.  Anyone with a drill and a hacksaw (or cutoff wheel) can build them in less than an hour. 
  Also, did you notice if the oil you drained out smelled at all like gasoline?  
 

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2007 Outlaw IRS

"Outlaws are the Chuck Norris of the quad world."
Dirt Maggert

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Posts: 9
Reply with quote  #11 
Yes, I thought it did a little. It didn't seem really thin or anything though. The oil looked pretty clean and still had good viscosity, filters and screens were all clean. The valves were really tight before adjustment and the gas was too old to burn, so I figured that's how gas was getting into the combustion chamber, but I cant see that much gas getting down there. I'll keep a close eye on it once I really get it out. I'll change the oil and adjust the valves well before the 10 hour mark at least 3 or 4 times. But I'm really excited to hit the trails! Thanks for the tip on the rear fenders, I'll look into that.
TxOutlawRider

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Reply with quote  #12 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirt Maggert
Yes, I thought it did a little. It didn't seem really thin or anything though. The oil looked pretty clean and still had good viscosity, filters and screens were all clean. The valves were really tight before adjustment and the gas was too old to burn, so I figured that's how gas was getting into the combustion chamber, but I cant see that much gas getting down there. I'll keep a close eye on it once I really get it out. I'll change the oil and adjust the valves well before the 10 hour mark at least 3 or 4 times. But I'm really excited to hit the trails! Thanks for the tip on the rear fenders, I'll look into that.


Its possible if you have a stuck or leaking float needle. That could put gas into the cylinder, where it will leak past the rings and into the crankcase and raise the oil level.  That might explain how come it was so overfilled on oil... it would also explain some of the carb issues that you have.  You might want to consider shutting off the fuel petcock when youre not riding it to be on the safe side until you're sure its not leaking. 

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2007 Outlaw IRS

"Outlaws are the Chuck Norris of the quad world."
Dirt Maggert

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Posts: 9
Reply with quote  #13 
Thanks for the tip, I will definitely make sure to turn the petcock off after each ride. Ill keep an eye on the oil level and see if that changes anything. The float needle looked ok and seemed to move freely but definitely something I'll keep an eye on. Thanks for all the good tips guys. Keep em coming!
Dunph

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Reply with quote  #14 
Welcome! I would agree on the front roller bearing kit. With a little maintenance they've lasted me 8 years. I was only getting one season out of more expensive stock style bearings
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06 Outlaw 558
15 sportsman 850 sp
02 scrammy 400
2016 2500hd
2003 GMC Sierra 1500hd Quadrasteer Yes i know my rear wheels are crooked! http://www.youtube.com/user/dustinwpearce
Commi-chusetts
Dirt Maggert

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Reply with quote  #15 
Thanks, I did look those up. I will get at a set of them soon. Finally brought it home from work this past weekend hoping to ride it, but the weekend gets away from me too fast. I noticed a small tear in the left inner boot the other day after I had it loaded up in the truck. I knew that might be a possibility when I picked it up. What boots do you guys use? Are stock boots still available? Well, i'll try to get a few night rides in this week hopefully, just around the neighborhood. Looks like a snowmobile trip might be in my plans this weekend so no Outlaw time again. Anyway, thanks for all your suggestions guys, keep em coming!
Dunph

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Reply with quote  #16 
Try not to ride it while the boot is ripped! At the very least use some gasket maker to seal it up before you take it for a ride. I just usually use the stock boots
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06 Outlaw 558
15 sportsman 850 sp
02 scrammy 400
2016 2500hd
2003 GMC Sierra 1500hd Quadrasteer Yes i know my rear wheels are crooked! http://www.youtube.com/user/dustinwpearce
Commi-chusetts
TxOutlawRider

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Posts: 1,650
Reply with quote  #17 
The aftermarket boots are easier to install but I've had them leak and come loose. Use the Polaris inner boots.
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2007 Outlaw IRS

"Outlaws are the Chuck Norris of the quad world."
distraction628

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Reply with quote  #18 
If the boot isn't ripped to bad, tire patch kits work awesome. My wife's had one on for 5 years!
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07 525, 06 500, 10 525s 09 RZRs, 04 Ram 2500 Cummins 6spd, 08 Fuzion toy-hauler
TxOutlawRider

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Reply with quote  #19 
Quote:
Originally Posted by distraction628
If the boot isn't ripped to bad, tire patch kits work awesome. My wife's had one on for 5 years!


I fixed one using some gorilla tape and Goop. It heald a weekend of riding but I changed it when I got home. I never thought of the tire repair patch. Great idea!

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2007 Outlaw IRS

"Outlaws are the Chuck Norris of the quad world."
Dirt Maggert

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Posts: 9
Reply with quote  #20 
That is a good idea! the tear is about an inch long, and I do have a new patch kit I got a couple weeks ago to patch some tubes for sledding. Ill give that a shot, thanks!
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