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mrspeedy69

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Reply with quote  #1 
I traded for an 04 Predator and the carb was leaking fuel so I decided to clean and do a rebuild kit. The predator is completely stock and the rebuild kit was stock.

I'm just wondering what are the factory settings for the carb. Which clip on the needle, how many turns out of the air/fuel screw? Also I get confused on the air/fuel screw. If I screw it in does that make it richer or leaner?

When I put the carb back together I put the needle clip in the 4th position and the air/fuel about 3 turns out. It seemed to run ok but would hesitate/stumble from about 1/4 throttle to full. After about a half second hesitation it would take off and run awesome. So I moved it to the 5th position and it ran smooth. However it had no power at all. I then moved it to the 3rd clip and it cut out bad.

I've tried numerous settings and can't seem to get it to run right and I've messed with it so much I'm not sure where to begin again. I figured if I start back with the factory settings that will give me a start.
LE Nick

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Reply with quote  #2 
Should be 150 main, 45 pilot, and 3rd clip.  I don't remember how many turns on the screw.  Thought it was around 2-2.5.

Are you using an OEM needle or an aftermarket needle?  Main jets?

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mrspeedy69

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Reply with quote  #3 
Ok I know the main is 150 and I thought the Pilot said 42.5 but I'll double check. I bought a shindy rebuild kit on amazon and it was suppose to be all 100% OEM. I remember checking against what I pulled out of it and they were the same. I even went back to the needle that I pulled out and it ran the exact same way.
pimpedpredators

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Reply with quote  #4 
3rd clip down,2.5 turns out. If you just got it, the valves almost certainly need to be adjusted.Also the factory fuel pump and hoses should be eliminated, in my opinion. The hoses for sure. They are not lined for Ethanol fuel, and are 12+ years old.Replacing the air filter with a aftermarket UNI filter will help also. But your issue seems to indicate the needle jet.Look in the manual and make sure you have it all assembled correctly.I have a the Factory service manual I can send you if you want, just send me your e-mail address.

 

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03' Predator HPD 558,full HMF, Kibblewhite valvetrain,full port/polish,Dyna FS ,Keihin FCR  w/MP twist,Barnett clutch & billet basket,Trail Tech billet dash,billet Torch lights, H&H 1 1/8" bars,TrailTech"Voyager"GPS, Acerbis gaurds, Full Flight +2 "A" arms,HPD +2 anti.vibe stem and dual stabilizers, custom billet tie rods&heims,frt. roller upgrade,Pro Armor case saver,AC Racing nerfs w/IMS ROLL pegs& shifter, Ballistic battery, +3" swinger,Lonestar +4" axle,Tusk Pro heels, full DG skids,Pro Aluminum grab,Blingstar bumper,UM alum.oil tank,custom radiator,Streamline rotors, AMR Graffix, gussett kit,Race Tech triple rate springs,full custom Fox Podiums w/added front res., ITP SS wheels w/ ITP Sand/Dune Stars for sand, ITP Pro Baja, w/ ITP Holeshot HD's for dirt, 03' Predator 500 (daughters) PP pipe, TRXr carb,PD intake,UNI ,no box,Jardine nerfs,Tusk heels,AC bumper,Trail Tech: fat bars,dash,Vapor,Torches, Razrs on black G-Force for dirt,AMS on red Douglas for sand
mrspeedy69

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Reply with quote  #5 
I'm pretty sure I have the needle set correctly, however I'll msg you for the manual anyway. But on the needle at the top I start with a washer, then the clip, then it's a thick white spacer, then another thin washer. I had a parts diagram that I used and that's how it was assembled when I took it apart.

Thanks for the info about the fuel pump. I've never owned one that had a pump like this and it honestly seems over complicated. Are the valves difficult to adjust? I did some googling but couldn't find a good video or pictures. I'm fairly mechanically inclined just haven't worked on ATV's too much.
pimpedpredators

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Reply with quote  #6 
I think it's pretty safe to say that the pump is unnecessary,this same carb comes on the Suzuki LT400, no pump.Plus most of us on here eliminate the pump first thing. The valves are a little scary the first time you do them, I wont lie. But as long as you are careful, follow the procedure in the manual,it is by no means hard to do. You only need a couple of tools, a set of feeler gauges,a micrometer, a 8mm socket. However, unless you know how many hours are on the timing chain, I HIGHLY recommend replacing it at the same time. Its less than $100 for a new chain and a clutch cover gasket. I also recommend getting the Hot Cams shim kit, its like $65. Having the valves done at a shop is like $200. I think LEO still offers a video that covers the valve adjustment procedure,among other things, for $20. I offer complete "fuel pump elimination kits" check out my FB page at
http://www.facebook.com/PimpDzignz500   for more info.


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03' Predator HPD 558,full HMF, Kibblewhite valvetrain,full port/polish,Dyna FS ,Keihin FCR  w/MP twist,Barnett clutch & billet basket,Trail Tech billet dash,billet Torch lights, H&H 1 1/8" bars,TrailTech"Voyager"GPS, Acerbis gaurds, Full Flight +2 "A" arms,HPD +2 anti.vibe stem and dual stabilizers, custom billet tie rods&heims,frt. roller upgrade,Pro Armor case saver,AC Racing nerfs w/IMS ROLL pegs& shifter, Ballistic battery, +3" swinger,Lonestar +4" axle,Tusk Pro heels, full DG skids,Pro Aluminum grab,Blingstar bumper,UM alum.oil tank,custom radiator,Streamline rotors, AMR Graffix, gussett kit,Race Tech triple rate springs,full custom Fox Podiums w/added front res., ITP SS wheels w/ ITP Sand/Dune Stars for sand, ITP Pro Baja, w/ ITP Holeshot HD's for dirt, 03' Predator 500 (daughters) PP pipe, TRXr carb,PD intake,UNI ,no box,Jardine nerfs,Tusk heels,AC bumper,Trail Tech: fat bars,dash,Vapor,Torches, Razrs on black G-Force for dirt,AMS on red Douglas for sand
mrspeedy69

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Posts: 7
Reply with quote  #7 
Thank you for the info and sending me the manual. After looking at the manual I don't think I have the needle put together correctly. I used a parts diagram I found on Polaris parts house and it is different from the service manual. The service manual specifically states that the spring must go on the clip and that all the washers must go under that clip. I don't know if that's the cause of my issue but I'm almost betting it is. I'll try and change that and see what happens.
mrspeedy69

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Reply with quote  #8 
Well I put the carb together the way the manual says and that didn't have any effect on it. The carb just doesn't stay consistent. I adjusted it so that it was lean and it acted that way. Then when I went back to it being rich it still acted way lean. I've ordered a replacement carb so I'll see how it does.

I also checked the valves as the intake valves were .15mm on both and the exhaust were .25 on both. So according to the manual they are both within spec so I didn't bother with them anymore. Hopefully the new carb will be here soon and I'll see how it runs with it
mrspeedy69

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Reply with quote  #9 
So I bought a new carb and put it on. I noticed from another post that my old carb did not have any vent hoses on the carb so I added some to this new one with a filter on the right side. I went ahead and deleted the fuel pump and went to the gravity fed style.

This new car it starts and revs much better than the other carb. However, it has a hanging high idle. Like I'll rev it up and it'll just stay high for about 30 seconds and then come down to idle. I notice if I put my finder over the breather tube it comes down to idle right now. If I keep it on there the bike dies.
drummerdave

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Reply with quote  #10 
Did you delete the fuel pump?

It sounds like you might have an air leak.   Check all possible leaks around the intake (on the head side of the carb), vacuum lines, etc.
mrspeedy69

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Posts: 7
Reply with quote  #11 
I did delete the fuel pump and blocked the vacuum port that was plugged into the pump.

I got it fixed last night though. Turns out the needle in the new carb wasn't right. I put a new needle in that I used to rebuild the first carb. Once I put it in the hanging idle stopped. So far it runs pretty good it's just dieing after I get on it some and then left off the throttle. I plan on adjusting the fuel screw since now I think that is caused by running too lean.
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