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Scubamike

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So I have a 2008 Polaris 525 irs ATV that showed no signs of any issues and ran fine last time I rode it. Today I started the bike for a few minutes to warm it up to change the engine oil and it ran fine. I dumped the old oil out and replaced the two filters. There was some metal on the plug but did not appear too bad. Refilled the oil to the level stated in the manual with Rottela full synthetic and ran the engine for out a minute and shut the choke off and the engine quit. Went to try to start in again and it would not turn over. It appears as the engine is locked up. I jacked the bike up and pulled the plug out and put in gear and it will not turn over. Pulled the valve covers and the valves are good and have not dropped into the cylinder. The bike has about 12 hours since the last oil change and valve adjustment. Any ideas what might have caused the engine to lock up or is there anything else that might cause it to not turn over? My guess is the ATV has no more than 50 to 60 hours on it.
ORION

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Well that is not good. Pull your clutch cover. Not the little circle, but the whole cover. Take a look at the crank nut. Its probably backed off into the case. If that doesn't work, I would pull the starter off. Then I would get it going real fast in 3rd gear on pavement and drop the clutch. If it skids to a halt, rock it back and fourth as hard as you can to try and bust it free. You might explore other options before forcefuly breaking it free though, as sometimes this method causes puddles of oil to form on the ground under your engine. 
ORION

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P6220985.JPG 
ORION

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P6220987.JPG 
ORION

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That's a "left handed/reverse thread" nut on the crank. If memory serves, you want to clean the threads, add the strongest locktite/threadlocker you can find, and tighten that sucker down to 110lbs of torque.
The Woo Woo Kid

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Reply with quote  #6 
How long between when you drained it's oil and then refilled it ? The book says no more than a couple of hours or else the prime is lost.
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08 OUTLAW 525 IRS
Scubamike

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Reply with quote  #7 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ORION
That's a "left handed/reverse thread" nut on the crank. If memory serves, you want to clean the threads, add the strongest locktite/threadlocker you can find, and tighten that sucker down to 110lbs of torque.

ORION,
I finally got a chance today to look at my outlaw today and followed your advice and took the entire clutch cover off and did in fact find the crank nut loose and against the case. I did clean, lock tight and torque the nut and put everything back together checked my valve clearance adjustment prior to putting the system back together and confirmed the engine now turned over. The ATV started up and ran normal. Thank you so much for your help and knowledge it's much appreciated. I was really not looking forward to having to rebuild the engine and thankfully at this point I do not have too [smile] Thanks again!
ORION

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No problem man, glad I could help.

Ya, that would suck to rebuilt the whole motor for nothing.
LEOGM5150

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Reply with quote  #9 
Awesome news man.
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MY GREATEST FEAR IS THAT WHEN I DIE MY WIFE WILL SELL MY TOYS FOR WHAT I TOLD HER I HAVE INTO THEM...

2014 POLARIS RZR 4 900 EPS
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2008 POLARIS OUTLAW 525S LE
2007 POLARIS OUTLAW 525 IRS
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TxOutlawRider

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Reply with quote  #10 
That's really cool that it was just that nut. 
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birdman7389

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Reply with quote  #11 
Hell yes! PPR rules
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Drendell88xcracer

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Reply with quote  #12 
That was a great piece of advice!!  
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09' Outlaw 525s - Rath arms, Dominator2 2+2" axle, Flexx bars, FMF full exhaust, Rath +1 swinging arm, pure polaris bumper, nerfs, heel guards, 10" hiper wheels, pulse handguards, motion pro twist throttle, pro armour kill, quadtech hood, Apico fatbar risers, red EK chain, Talon sprockets, Toby steering damper, Danger UK graphics on the way!  Race no #88   
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ORION

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Reply with quote  #13 
Ya I'm glad it worked out. When the nut is backed up against the case it usually makes the engine's crank case much louder at idle. After the nut is tightened, you should notice that it produces much less noise in the bottom end. (Loose nut touching the case transfers crank/piston noise). If you start leaking oil from the gasket near the front of the clutch cover, that can be a warning sign of the loose crank nut as well. Its a weird problem, but at least it doesn't cause any kind of catastrophic failure. Loose parts inside the engine often result in stuff like this: 





M576b.jpg

nckfrs

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Reply with quote  #14 
Sorry for reviving a old thread but this seems to possible to the problem im having I bought a 08 outlaw 525 its for super cheap was told it runs but once warm seizes up doesn't have a knock and they believed it to be crank bearings bike has low miles and has been sitting for a couple years I plan on working on it tonight and will check this nut asap anything else to look for?
Rkangel

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Reply with quote  #15 
Definitely check the crank nut.  However, this nut is aluminum and butts up against the side cover if it does back off.  So, unless the nut has completely broken, and pieces have fallen down into the block and jammed something up, it isn't likely the primary source of your seizing issue.  Temperature relates seizing is most likely cylinder or crank damage, and it doesn't always make knocking sounds when it happens either. 

You can check for metal chunks on your oil screens.  If you have or can get a bore scope you can check for signs of cylinder damage.  You can check your cooling system to make sure it is functioning properly.  But in the end I suspect you are looking at a motor rebuild.

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2009 Polaris Outlaw IRS
Dunph

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Reply with quote  #16 
I concur^^^
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